One-dimensional numerical modelling of beach profiles in response to a sand nourishment scheme

Harun, Huda (2017) One-dimensional numerical modelling of beach profiles in response to a sand nourishment scheme. [Project Paper] (Submitted)

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Abstract

The background of this study focuses on the study area of Teluk Cempedak Beach located in Kuantan, Pahang. Teluk Cempedak Beach is one of the main tourist attractions in the Pahang state. However, the beach has a history of erosion resulted in the narrowing of the beach area, which has affected adversely on the recreational and tourist activities in this area. To control the erosion problem, the Department of Irrigation and Drainage (DID) has decided to implement beach nourishment scheme as the soft engineering solution. From May to July 2004, the beach has been nourished with 178,000 m3 of sand. Beach profile survey data from July 2004 (nourished profiles) until October 2004 (post nourished profiles) is taken for this study. This study aims at investigating the performance of process based model of XBeach in predicting beach profiles in response to a sand nourishment scheme. XBeach is used as a tool to investigate the performance of the model in evaluating cross-shore profiles under real wave conditions. The modelled cross-shore profiles are compared with the measured profiles. The results indicated that the optimum values of tuning parameter for facut4 wetslp and Chezy coefficient for erosive profiles are 0.1, 0.1 and 45 respectively. Meanwhile, for accretive profiles, the optimum value for tuning parameter,/acua, is 0.0. Both profiles predicted the best modelled profiles under the input of initial water level of Mean Sea Level (MSL). The final Brier Skill Score (BSS) for CH 400, CH 500, CH 600, CH 700, CH 800, CH 900, CH 1000 and CH 1100 are -0.79, -1.19, 0.19, 0.57, 0.34, 0.71, 0.62, and 0.66 respectively. It is found that the performance of XBeach models showed promising results for erosive profiles but the other way around for accretive profiles. This is due to the limitations that are present in this study such as longshore transport and tidal process effect are neglected. XBEACH has been validated extensively for erosive conditions but its use for modelling accretion, especially for sandy beaches, is limited. Investigating the modelled profile evolution produces a finding that higher waves tend to erode bed profile faster than lower waves.

Item Type:	Project Paper
Faculty:	Faculty of Engineering
Depositing User:	Ms Siti Mariam Giman
Date Deposited:	25 Oct 2023 08:00
Last Modified:	25 Oct 2023 08:00
URI:	http://psaspb.upm.edu.my/id/eprint/1585

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